Day 1

Chisako and I visited several galleries and shops on my first day. We stopped by a Craft Dyer who uses natural dyes on organic cotton clothing a 300-year-old tea merchant , and Sophora Gallery where I was really taken with ceramics by Toru Hatta. I dreamt about them for days and finally returned on my last day to fetch a few small cups. Now that I'm home I've put them to the test -- yes, the tea definitely tastes better in them!

The highlight of the day was a visit to a small gallery behind a fine metal -working shop featuring the work of artist Armel Barraud. She is a French artist who works with wire to produce Calder-like figures that become wall pieces and jewelry. She was living and working in Kyoto through a grant from Villa Kujoyama which awards residencies to artists and writers in order to strengthen intercultural dialogue between France and Japan. So wonderfully whimsical...



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In a completely different vein, we also visited the dizzying Nishiki Food Market. So many pickles! So much fish! Beans in all shapes, forms and flavors! Yes, there's way more to Japanese food than sushi...